Meramec State Park, Sullivan, MO

After a long hiatus, I'm back. We've been camping, I just haven't been writing on this site. I wish I had kept it up better -- I guess I can start today.

So on to Meramec...

Location: 3 miles south of Sullivan, MO (on I-44, near St. Louis)
Terrain: rocky, wooded, campground borders a river
Size: 6,896.33
Modern Campsites: 210 (basic through full service)
Phone Reservations: limited
Online reservations: yes
Link: Meramec State Park

Meramec is one of the most popular state parks in the Missouri systems and for good reason. It is a family-style park with tons of amenities: when you pull in there is a great visitor center on the right, complete with a buzzing community of hummingbirds that may be viewed out the back windows. Nothing like watching a bunch of ruby-throats diving at each other like tiny WW2 era fighter planes to get your trip started the right way.

At the front of the park is a spacious and very well-equipped play area and day use area with access to the river. On a little higher ground there are several cabins for rent: I couldn't see much through the windows but they look small, clean and comfortable -- I'd definitely consider renting them if we didn't want to drag the camper. On another road there is a conference center and hotel which was dead quiet when we were there.

A little further down the main road and off to the right is a former dining hall, now camp store and grill. It has a good variety of fun merchandise and camping essentials as well as a memorial and historical display dedicated to the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corp). I thought that was pretty cool, since my father recently told us that his father was a member of the CCC "out west". Anyway the CCC did so much for the parks system throughout the U.S. and it's good to see them getting their due. Behind the dining hall are some other double cabins. Somewhere up there there is a beautiful view to be seen (there's an observation deck in another part of the park which I didn't get to see). But it's hard to tell with full summer growth.

More driving and you finally arrive at the campgrounds. There are 3 areas, all strung out along the river. The river can be heard but not seen since it resides behind a heavy growth of trees and brush and down a steep embankment in most places. But if you poke around enough there are spots that lead to the water and some very peaceful views. The spots are tucked in to the trees all the way around the perimeter and seem pretty spacious. The park isn't lit at night like some so it gets pretty dark around the outer edges. The shower houses (there are 3) are basic and moderately clean -- shower temps were cold and "turn all the way to the left and press your luck" -- you may get warm or hot water, depending on the plumbing's mood.

While you're there, go float, hike, swim, fish and take a tour through Fisher Cave. Fisher Cave is a beauty and a great way to kill off an hour and a half in the summer heat. If you like caves, they say there are 47 throughout the park -- but only one gives tours. Many are small and don't go back very far and some are permit only, you'll need to check with the conservationists. During the week the groups for caving and floating are small, the park is uncrowded and the river is peaceful. I hear the weekends get really hairy, though so plan for larger crowds and make the appropriate reservations. You can make arrangements for rafts, canoes or tubing at the boat landing inside the park and it's relatively inexpensive for a day of fun: we paid $5 each for the shuttle to the put-in and $10 each for inner tubes, plus another $3.50 for a cheapy to float the cooler in so we could have snacks and drinks on our float. With the river so low and slow it took almost an hour per mile, so a cooler gets pretty important.

Also keep your trash secure and your coolers bungied at night -- the critter are plentiful and not very shy. While we were there we saw (in the campground) deer, raccoons, opossum, groundhogs and squirrels. Along the river watch for turtles and bullfrogs and herons.

I loved Meramec almost as much as the original Johnson's Shut Ins, which is another hour or two south and also situated on a river. JSI has recently reopened for some activity -- I hope that AmerUE is paying plenty for the restoration of that very beautiful park after their reservoir failed last year and took out half the park, not to mention putting the park ranger's kids in the hospital and wiping out his home.

4/5 Stars

Lewis & Clark State Park

Location: Buchanan County, MO (S of St. Joseph)
Terrain: meadow, small woods, flat, borders an oxbow lake
Size: 201 acres
Modern Campsites: 70 (basic & electric)
Phone Reservations: yes
Online reservations: yes
Link: Lewis & Clark State Park

If you love to fish, Lewis & Clark State Park is your kind of place. If you don't, you might want to look south to Weston Bend State Park.

LCSP is on the shore of an oxbow lake known by many names through the years -- Lewis and Clark called it "Gosling Lake" when they stayed near here on their famous trek to the Pacific. It is great for fishing and smaller boats and a nice spot for a picnic. Other than that and a tiny wood on the south side where there might be some morels in the spring, there's not much here.

The campground itself is neat and clean and the spots are very spacious although in wet springs, some sites get swampy, so watch out. Some sites have shelters built over the picnic tables, which can be very helpful in light rains and on hot, sunny days. I haven't seen the inside of the showerhouse, so I can't comment on it or the availability of water as we didn't need either when we were there. Like Weston, there is no interpretive center or museum and in my two visits I have never seen the tiny park office open. This campground does have a host, so if you need help, that's where to find it.

LCSP is about 15 minutes from both Weston and St. Joseph if you have forgotten something or you're looking for something to do besides watch the robins. Some people love this park -- because of its quiet setting and relatively remote location, there's usually space available. If you want a spot to throw washers or horseshoes or just watch the stars, this is a nice area with fewer trees and a big open sky. But if you want amenities and entertainment, this park might not be your cup of tea.

2/5 Stars

Weston Bend State Park

Location: Platte County, MO (NW Kansas City Metro)
Terrain: wooded, rolling hills, borders Missouri River
Size: 1,133 acres
Modern Campsites: 37 (basic & electric)
Phone Reservations: yes
Online reservations: yes
Link: Weston Bend State Park

Weston Bend is a perfect park for couples. It has a single loop with electric sites that meander up a well-kept blacktop to the top of a hill, where the basic sites take over. Basic campers get to enjoy the best views and the best woods! Most sites are in shade and the ones on the east side of the road (as you enter) border a small stretch of woods that are very popular for mushroom hunters in spring. That's right -- I said morels. Missouri parks do allow the harvest of mushrooms and fruits only, so no digging. But really, if you love the thrill of the hunt, WBSP is a great spot. Do beware-- ticks love this place, too.

WBSP doesn't have much to explore -- some nice hike & bike trails, tobacco barns and a beautiful overlook. Fishermen can try their luck on the Missouri River. But I think the best part of WBSP is not what's in it -- rather, what's around it. You can drive about 6 miles to the town of Weston and spend a nice afternoon antiqueing and shopping the shops. My favorite candle maker in the whole wide world is in Weston -- 5B & Co. Candles. Also, visit Red Barn Farm and Vaughn's Orchard, both of which are just 3-4 east of the park.

The showerhouse in the park is located at the bottom of the camping loop and is usually very clean. There is another toilet further up the loop, closer to the basic camping. Water here is plentiful, with spigots and working water fountains. The pads are spacious -- there is one site that has full hookups because it's the "host" site. However, in three years I have never seen a host in the campground. Fees are picked up by DNR employees, who are quite friendly. There is no playground in the campground, although there is elsewhere in the park. There is also not much of a park office here, no museum or interpretive center. As I mentioned, Weston is great for couples who want peace and space. You don't see many kids here and I wouldn't recommend trying to entertain a tribe of them for the weekend unless you are planning excursions outside the park.

The best time to visit WBSP is in the spring for mushrooms or in the fall to visit the orchards and see the beautiful leaves. In other months, you can go across the river to Leavenworth, KS to see the fort and federal prison or to Atchison, KS. Either way, WBSP is a great little place to unwind.

April 2005 update- they are adding electrical hookups to most of the formerly unimproved sites and reservations are now available on the Missouri State Parks website. Also looks like there is now a camp host.

3/5 Stars

Watkins Mill State Park

Location: Clay County, MO (NE Kansas City Metro)
Terrain: wooded, low rolling hills, meadows
Size: 1,442 acres
Modern Campsites: 98 (56 electric)
Phone Reservations: yes
Online reservations: yes
Link: Watkins Mill State Park

Watkins Mill is a very popular park and with good reason: it has a lot to offer for families and is one of the closest to the KC metro.

Most of the sites are shaded, roomy and pretty level. My personal favorite is the first site we ever stayed in here, #25. It backs up to the woods and is near a short path to the amphitheater and a showerhouse. Showerhouses are fair, water hookups are plentiful.

The lake is 100 acres, very tame, with a surprisingly long paved path all the way around. Take water if you hike it in summer. There is a swimming beach and plenty of fishing to be found and the whole thing is a short walk from the campground. You'll find lots of walkers and bikers here.

Watkins Mill itself is the greatest reason to visit this park, however. An almost pristine, fully equipped 19th century woolen mill is on the property, along with an 1850s era farmstead, heritage gardens, family cemetery and a pleasant visitor's center with a gift shop and museum. Also on the WMSP property are a church and a schoolhouse and another small cemetery. The mill was run by a salvaged ship's steam engine and it's still there, although rusted beyond repair. The mill tours are inexpensive and worth the price. (You will need to drive to visit these park features).

WMSP is usually very busy, so reservations are really a necessity. A shortage of good camping in the area makes this park very popular. There are also some good day-use county parks nearby if you feel like doing some exploring and the Jesse James farmstead is also a short drive away.

A few miles to the east is Excelsior Springs -- complete with a Wal-Mart and a Price Chopper grocery if you've forgotten something. Excelsior is a cool little town -- be sure to check out The Elms, a turn of the century resort where former presidents and famous notables came to "take the waters". If you go west, you'll hit Kearney, where you'll also be able to get supplies if you need them. While you're there can swing by Mt. Olivet Cemetery and say hello to Jesse himself, if you've a mind to.

4/5 stars

Indian Cave State Park

Location: Nemaha County, NE (SE corner)
Terrain: wooded, rolling hills, some steep "cliffs", borders Missouri River
Size: 3,052 acres
Modern Campsites: 134 (22 with 50 amp hookups)
Phone Reservations: yes
Online reservations: yes
Link: Indian Cave State Park

Our first visit to Indian Cave SP was on Labor Day Weekend. It is somewhat difficult to reach from Missouri since there are only two ways over the river, Brownville and Rulo. We went in one way and out another and Brownville was probably the easiest of the two.

We were greeted at 8:15 p.m. Friday night by a line of cars about 15 deep. Park personnel were working the line to try to speed the process. Although we had a reservation and had prepaid, I mistakenly forgot to ask about the vehicle permit. The line took maybe 10 minutes and when we arrived at our site it was basically dark. My understanding from our neighbors is that the park is relatively quiet in high summer but picks up considerably from Labor Day-October 31 when the leaves are turning. The next day we encountered another long line but this time we bypassed it, since we had already received our tag.

Our site (#38) was bordered by a rock wall, a common feature to many of the sites on the short loop, called Hackberry Hollow. This makes for interesting backing in and begs the question, "What if it rains?", since the site is sort of in a hole. Outfitted with a 30 amp pole, a picnic table and fire pit, it's just a basic site. It shared a common problem with most of the sites we saw -- very little elbow room. We like to play "ladder ball" and we struggled to find enough room to play without lobbing balls in to the fire. Ash Grove is the longer loop by far and has reserved and non-reserved sites in abundance. Sites near the top are crowded and not well-shaded but as you roll down the hill, there is more level terrain and plenty of shade, plus the appearance of some "breathing room".

The campground is beautifully kept and has the cleanest bathrooms I've ever seen. The park has living history demonstrations (brooms, soap, blacksmith, candle dipping), two historic buildings (a schoolhouse and a small "store") and a cave so damaged by previous visitors that it was hard to look at. ICSP also has a butterfly garden, trail rides, an amphitheater, a black powder rifle range and two cemetaries (the last immoveable link to the small village that once was here). The one notable thing ICSP lacks is fresh water taps: there are few to begin with and many were broken. Also, if you forget something, count on a 20-minute drive to Falls City or Auburn for groceries and conveniences.

Tent camping appears plentiful and is located along the main roads or, for the more adventurous, scattered throughout the park on over 22 miles of hiking trails. The trails even include Adirondack shelters, a feature I've never seen in a midwest park.

One interesting note: this park is near Brownville Nuclear Power Station. There is an emergency broadcast system in place in the park, both for inclement weather and nuclear meltdown. But the only glow we saw this weekend was the broad Nebraska sky shot through with stars -- something you can only see away from the city.

4/5 stars